India has always been on my bucket list so I was incredibly excited to learn that I would be visiting with Travelsphere and Just You. In the lead up to the trip, the excitement built but for some reason, so did a slight feeling of apprehension. Have I got the right clothes? Can I survive on Curry for a week? Is the heat going to be overwhelming etc etc. I needn't have worried. It took less than a day for me to acclimatise to the heat, noise and crazy chaos and then throughout my trip I fell more and more in love with India!
Delhi
We arrived into Delhi on Gandhi's birthday and therefore a national holiday. Upon leaving the airport, the first thing that hit me was the humidity even at 1am in the morning. My trip was in October however I would definitely recommend travelling December - March where the temperatures and humidity are much more comfortable.
On arrival at the 5* Hotel ITC Mauryna, we were greeted by friendly staff who presented us with a beautiful necklace made of marigolds. Delhi was everything you imagine it to be and more. Everywhere you look, there is colour and noise and the smell of incense seems to permanently be in the air. We walked through food markets and centuries-old backstreets to the wonderful Salaam Balaak trust. This organisation works tirelessly to get street kids (of which I was to see many) in to care where they can escape & develop themselves. The most amazing lady talked us through how the trust helped her get to the point she is now, in University and heavily involved with the trust and helping other children. It was so inspirational and really got me thinking on what we take for granted back home.
Religion permeates every aspect of life in India and with so many being worshipped and celebrated all around you, it was fascinating to visit a Gudwara (Sikh temple), especially on Gandhi's birthday. It's a Sikh belief that no one should go hungry and therefore there was an enormous kitchen with huge equipment capable of making thousands of free meals each and every day. Everyone is welcome which gave a wonderful sense of community and care. We also enjoyed a sunset visit to the beautiful Qutub Minar, a UNESCO site in South Delhi. Our Travelsphere Tour Guide was a mine of information (without being bearing which I also think is really important).
Agra
If you've not been to India before, chances are the main reason for your trip resides here. Agra is smaller and less populated than Delhi so it was nice to leave the frenzy behind and after a pleasant 2-hour train journey, we arrived in Agra. The train is 3 times quicker than driving and our First Class seats were more than comfortable. A great experience and nice to have a break from the coach (which had been making it's own way to Agra with all our suitcases onboard so no need to struggle on/off trains with these).
Our first stop was the Red Fort and this was my favourite Fort of the trip. The red sandstone architecture, the views, the manicured gardens and the cute resident bats all made for a great visit. If the Red Fort was the supporting act, it was finally time to see the star of the show. Well, what I can say about the Taj Mahal that hasn't been said before... Probably nothing, but it is truly breathtaking. You enter the site through an arched gateway and it's impressive even from this standpoint however the closer you get, the more spectacular it becomes. I am so glad we visited at sunset, the white marble seems to drink up the pink light and begins to glow. I am told that sunrise is equally as impressive though. We walked through the grounds to take the obligatory photos and even into the mausoleum itself. All in all, a day I will never forget.
Ranthambore National Park
Leaving the cities behind and entering the peaceful countryside was like a breath of fresh air. The towns and villages become smaller and smaller, the traffic dwindles and the scenery becomes more and more beautiful - Not for the first time has it been reinforced to me that I am a country girl through and through.
On longer coach journeys, Travelsphere made sure to allow for comfort breaks and more importantly, they have already vetted the premises to make sure that they meet western standards (I'm obviously talking about the loos in particular). The Tigress felt like we were staying in a Maharaja's jungle retreat. It was so peaceful and the constant hum of Cicadas in the background always reminds me of being on holiday somewhere tropical.
We were up early the following morning for the first of our two game drives. At 6am the weather was perfect at a fresh 25°C. You're advised to wear loose clothing, in earthy colours so as not to startle any of the wildlife with anything too vibrant. The open-top jeeps are sent off into different zones of the National Park to begin the search for the illusive Bengal Tiger. Nothing could have prepared us for the sighting we were to get so soon into the drive. Within our first half an hour, the female 'Sultana', a Tigress very famous at Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, came into view and appeared to be hunting. She was in our sights for a good 10 minutes and then stalked off through the jungle. I would have been happy with just that given that we'd got such a clear view however Sultana was going too far just yet.
Tigers are territorial so the guides use traditional tracking techniques to find and track the tigers after the initial sighting. The zones indicate the territory of each tiger and so whilst they can never guarantee sightings, they have a good idea of where they will be. The trouble with tigers is they can sit for hours on end so if their chosen nap-spot is hidden away in the jungle vegetation, sometimes you may only see the tip of an ear or tail and sadly, sometimes you may see nothing at all. Which is why what happened next was so so special...
The jeep turned back on itself (they can only use the tracks and are not allowed off road so the wildlife can always get away from humans if they need to) and circled round the base of a hill only to slow right down to a halt. Sultana had decided she was going to take an easier path and walked down the track, directly parallel to our jeep. We were in awe.
After a very relaxing afternoon by the pool, we went on our second game drive of the day. At this time, it was much hotter and the tigers are generally tucked away somewhere having a nap so it was wonderful to drive round the park and take in the scenery (think Jungle Book where the jungle has reclaimed the ancient temples) as well as other wildlife - lots of peacocks, deer and birds. Everyone has to be out of the park by 6.30pm so we started to make our way back to the exit when our guide noticed one other jeep had stopped nearby. A sloth-bear was foraging for termites just off the track! My favourite animals are bears so this was an unexpected highlight for me. I went to bed with a huge smile that night; an incredible day from start to finish.
Jaipur
Jaipur is the capital city of Rajasthan and although it's hard for me to single out one place as my favourite, if I had to it would be Jaipur. It's just one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen. Colourful kites fill the skyline as children on rooftops compete to bring each other's down. It feels like incredible architecture can be found around every corner including the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Wind), the Amber Palace, Jal Mahal (Water Palace) and the City Palace which is breathtaking. The City Palace also houses some mini exhibits including one with traditional royal attire - think opulent robes with gems and gold thread. Speaking of clothing, Rajasthan is world-renowned for it's textiles so everywhere you look are shops selling the most beautiful fabrics, frequented by ladies wearing beautiful saris. The tailors are lined up one after the other, along long shopping streets. Our guide told us that families tend to choose a favourite tailor and then stick with them for all their outfit needs.
We spent an hour or so on the hunt for souvenirs which was a great experience. Generally speaking, haggling doesn't come naturally to us Brits but is a way of life in India. With some tips from our guides and after a few goes at it, I got into the swing of it and got a bargain pashmina so was very pleased with myself. Cashmere is an excellent buy here if you ever visit.
This evening and a stand-out highlight of the trip for me, was a cooking demonstration and dinner with a local family. The meal (that they seemed to knock up in around 20 minutes!) was absolutely delicious and my favourite meal of the week. We ate outside by candlelight and it was lovely to chat to them about cooking, all the different spices and just their general day-to-day life.
I could wax lyrical about Jaipur but I'll conclude with this; One of my favourite books is the Kite Runner by Khaleid Hosseini and if you've ever read it, you may have imagined the picture of a skyline dotted with bobbing kites - That's Jaipur. Although the book is set in old Kabul, my tour guide: Badam, said the book and the Jaipur kites have always reminded him of his Indian childhood.
Sariska National Park
Our final night was spent in this beautiful National Park, in an idyllic wellness retreat. Our hosts put on a leaving party with traditional music and dancing, which of course I participated in (however badly!). We laughed and feasted before falling into bed in my very own rustic cottage overlooking a nature reserve. The following morning, we had some free time before starting our 5-hour journey back to Delhi airport. I spent it by having a traditional Indian head massage and also getting a traditional Henna tattoo on my hand. The perfect end to an unforgettable trip.
Most asked questions since I've been home:
Did you get a bad tummy?
No! - I took a bag full of medicine in anticipation of this however only took it once across the whole trip as a precaution - on one of the longer coach journeys. Bottled water was continuously provided throughout the trip and I used this to brush my teeth as well as most importantly, staying hydrated. I also opted for cooked vegetables over salad. Of course, be prepared for lots of curry. I ate and thoroughly enjoyed curries I've never even heard of before! Although, if curry isn't your thing, all of the hotels we stayed in provided at least one Western option at all meal times.
Was there a lot of poverty?
Yes however... Homelessness looks very different in India. Whilst they have their obvious struggles, healthcare is free and there is an intrinsic belief that no one should go hungry therefore access to free meals is widespread. Everyone I met, young or old, was incredibly warm and friendly and the children were playful with big smiles on their faces. It was inspiring. There will obviously be exceptions to this but I did not come across them and I hope their situation improves soon.
Would you go back?
In a heartbeat. The Golden Triangle is a wonderful start but there is so much more to see and experience in this amazing country.
Special thanks to Travelsphere & Just You for this incredible opportunity. Our hosts were fantastic and we left as friends rather than tourists.
Namaste India, I will be back.
