13th July 2016: Sicily is far bigger than I had ever realised, but it is also more beautiful, historical and charming than I could ever have imagined. Here are just a few of the wonderful places I visited on my journey...
1. Ragusa
The first on my list is Ragusa, which was hit by an earthquake in 1693 and nearly completely destroyed. When it was rebuilt, it was split into two areas - Ragusa Superiore (Upper Ragusa), where the wealthy aristocratic citizens settle, and Ragusa Ibla or Ragusa Inferiore (Lower Ragusa), where the rest of the population reside.
Our local guide Nicoletta met us near Ragusa's Gardens and started by showing us the Portale di San Giorgio (St George's Gate), which is the only original building that survived the earthquake. Back in the gardens, we wandered through taking in the history of the three fascinating churches, then on to see the amazing view over the gorge and the rest of the valley. Towards the Piazzo Duomo, we stopped at San Giuseppe, a church attached to a nunnery, which is located next to the municipal building, used as the Police Station in the TV series Inspector Montalbano. This TV series has brought a resurgence of visitors to Sicily and now you can even take a Montalbano tour! I would highly recommend you taste the famous rose ice cream at the Gelati Di Vini, as you take in the views of the Piazzo.
2. Agrigento
Our next location is perfect for lovers of history and ancient legends; it is time to discover Agrigento. Met by our local guide (and archaeologist) Salvatori, we were taken to the Valley of the Temples, to see the remains of three amazing temples - Juno, Concordia and Hercules.
Built between 450-440 BC, The Temple of Juno was used by newlyweds, to offer a lamb to the protector of marriage, as a symbol of their lasting love. The Temple of Hercules is considered the oldest of all the temples, built in the 6th Century BC, it is dedicated to the mythical son of Jupiter. At around 430 BC, the Temple of Concordia is probably the best preserved of the temples, and incredibly fascinating to see.
3. Monreale
Our next hidden gem is Monreale, and its stunning Norman style cathedral. With our guide Giusi, we headed through the Golden Shell Valley, to the Duomo, built in 1174 by the Norman King, William 2nd.
Set in the lovely Piazza Vittoria Emanuele, with the fountain of Triton and a backdrop of the hills, it is an impressive sight. Outside you’ll find pointed arches and white marble columns, decorated with gold patterns and bands, while inside, the glittering Byzantin mosaics on the walls represent both Testaments. The effect was just stunning.
4. Palermo
A trip to Sicily wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Palermo, the capital city. With a complete mix of architectural styles and chaotic streets, it really is a fascinating place to wander.
We visited the Royal Palace Palatine Chapel, which was built 40 years before Duomo. Its interior was very similar in design, and its well-lit, marble and gold mosaic decoration depicted the stories from Old and New Testaments. With its sweeping arches, impressive gilded ceilings, precious stones, gorgeous mosaics, and even carved marble floors, it is no wonder the chapel is Palermo’s top tourist attraction.
5. Cefalu
With a population of just 13,000, Cefalu is a quaint city, situated on Sicily's northern coast. From the timeless relaxation of the clear waters and sandy beaches, to the long-standing traditions in the fishing port or the winding medieval streets with Ancient Roman baths, this hidden gem really has a unique, historical charm. A particular high point whilst in Cefalu has to be the view from Al Faro, an amazing spot on the coastline; it couples perfectly with a calming stroll past the collection of beaches along the Lungomare.
There is a huge amount to see and do in Cefalu, and a trip wouldn’t be complete without sampling some delicious cuisines in one of the many local restaurants. With both traditional and contemporary seafood dishes to sample, it has the ability to combine unique island flavours with the gorgeous tastes of pasta dishes from the mainland. If you’re planning a midsummer getaway, you may be able to catch the Fiesta di San Salvatore, held typically between 4th and 6th of August. Hundreds of locals run barefoot from San Salvatore to Cabras to commemorate the historical dash to save the city's 'Holy Saviour' statue in 1506. This truly is a sight, among many in Cefalu, you will never forget!
6. Barone Di Villagrande Vineyard
On my birthday we had the pleasure of visiting the Barone Di Villagrande Vineyard, on the lower east side of Mount Etna. We were taken into the cellar, where originally the wine making process was done over three levels, starting with the treading of grapes. Our guide explained how modern times brought a much more hygienic way of squeezing the grapes, and told us how the local chestnut trees are used to make barrels for their red wines, while the French oak is used for their white wines.
We learnt many interesting facts about the process, including how the volcanic fertile soil helps with the grapes, the maturing process which ranged from nine months to several years, and finished off in their restaurant for a fantastic lunch, where we 'had' to taste 2 white wines, 2 red wines, and their dessert wine.
7. Taormina
One of my favourite places in Sicily was definitely the well-known town of Taormina, where film stars, writers and even royalty have all escaped. Upon arrival, it was very clear why. Despite the continued need for umbrellas and raincoats, we got to see the fabulous sites over the two Bays and the Greco-Roman theatre, led by our local guide Giovanni. He told us about the history of the theatre and how the Greeks and the Romans both used it differently.
Set on a steep hill, the walks through the narrow streets of shops, cafes and churches just added to the charm and joy we all felt from this little place. We finished by eating granita, a semi-frozen dessert, in the rain at Licchio's, which ended what most of us considered our favourite day.
8. Syracuse
We set off for the archaeological area of Syracuse and although we encountered crawling traffic, our Tour Guides kept our spirits up with Prosecco and the retelling of stories and jokes. Our local guide Elisa met us at the Parco Archeologico, taking us around the ruins and the quarries.
One of these was the Orecchio di Dionisio, which is a large opening in the rock, that is shaped like the inside of an ear and had amazing acoustics, tested out by our rendition of 'Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star'. After the great applause, we moved on to the 5th Century BC Theatre, Teatro Greco.
9. Mount Etna
Reaching 3343 metres high is the impressive Mount Etna, which we visited on a chilly but sunny day. It took longer than we expected, but the closer we got, the bigger we realised the volcano is. We took a cable car up to 2935 metres, but to go right to the top, you would need an off-road vehicle with a guide to the crater, adding another 1 ½ hours round trip.
The level we reached was good for photos and our picnic, some of us were feeling light headed; so we stayed just long enough before returning to the coach for our airport transfer.
After our amazing trip through Sicily, it’s clear to see just how much it has to offer. With stunning architecture, historical charm and of course delicious food and wines, it really is a gem.
Mandy Phillips, Travel Specialist
Phone Mandy: 01873 566004
Email Mandy: [email protected]
Address: 70 Frogmore Street, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, NP7 5AU
