With the election of Daw Aung San Suu Kyi to parliament in 2012 and a relaxing of international sanctions, Myanmar has happily seen a rapid growth in tourism. I went on a TransIndus tour of Myanmar (Burma) to find out what you can expect to see in this fascinating country.
Mandalay
We took an early morning flight from Yangon to Mandalay, the last capital of royal Burma. Very much a cultural highlight and home to the majority of the country's monks & fine craftsmen.
First, we visited a gold leaf workshop to see how solid gold is beaten, rolled and pressed into the gold leaf which adorns almost all of the Buddhas, temples and stupa towers in Myanmar. Also, a good place to pick up a traditional handwoven "longbyi" or wrap around skirt, worn by both men and women.
Our visit here included the golden teak monastery, once part of the royal Mandalay palace - used as private apartments for King Mindon Min and his chief queen Hsinbyumashin.
Margaret’s tips
- Be prepared for the heat and humidity
- Carry and drink lots of water
- Wear loose flowing clothes
- Wear flip flops, as going barefoot is compulsory at every holy place, temple and shrine
At the statue of the seated Buddha we learned stories of his road to enlightenment and search for Nirvana. And then on to the "world’s biggest book" - actually 729 slabs of marble, carved with the scriptures of Tripitaka, housed in individual shrines around the central stupa at the Kunthodaw Paya pagoda.
The final stop today and a real highlight for me was the Shwe Kyin old monastery at the base of Mandalay hill. It was my birthday and it also happened to be that of a local "donor" - a faithful Buddhist who was honoured to provide food and drink for the monks here. We were privileged to be allowed to observe the monks’ procession, from the oldest to the youngest, chanting their way to their shrine for prayers. A very moving insight into what is an every day spiritual journey for the monks, and something I will never forget…
Royal Capitals
Based from Mandalay, we took a full day’s excursion to three former royal capitals - driving to Amarapura to see a modern-day monastery. Here at Mahagandayon, the monks receive their main and last meal of the day late morning, lining up to receive the daily offering provided by faithful local donors.
The life of a monk or a nun in Myanmar is one you choose to stay in for life, or simply some weeks, months or usually a few years. It is one that is encouraged and appreciated by Burmese society, and understanding this way of life is a great learning experience for tourist observers.
We also visited Sagaing, the spiritual centre of Myanmar, where the Sun U Ponya Shin Paya temple is a highlight. Most Buddhist followers here devote time to study and prayer, and seem better for it, with a calm and serene approach to life.
Following this, we crossed the river by small boat and were whisked by high-speed horse and buggy through flooded rice fields and tiny lanes to see Ava, another former royal capital. It's an abandoned city, with crumbling old temples emerging from the lush green farmland. Oxen grazed all around and surprising golden stupas appeared out of the undergrowth as we raced past.
It’s worth halting your exciting ride to see a number of sights, including Bagaya Kyaung Monastery, made of teak wood, and Bagan Nan Myint Tower, although this mode of transport is definitely not for those with a faint heart or bad back!
Amarapura
Today's highlight - back to Amarapura to the famous U Bein wooden bridge, which stretches 1 km into the Taungthanan lake. Home to local artisans and boatmen willing to take you onto the lake for the best view of spectacular sunsets.
Our bus journey to our next centre, Bagan, was long and bumpy. Although roads have vastly improved in recent years, the necessary infrastructure is still developing to match the demand. But the people of Myanmar are keen to attract more visitors to their magical country, as it's a mainly rural lifestyle and tourism proves a much-needed boost to the economy.
Political situation:
Our guide was most honest and open about the political instability of Myanmar, a refreshing and balanced insider’s view. They realise Myanmar is a new and sometimes struggling democracy with military rule, still not ideal for instilling confidence in visitors.
Margaret’s Top tip:
Mosquito repellent! I had most success from wrist and ankle bands impregnated with repellent, and wearing long sleeves and long trousers in the evening when the bugs bite the most.
Watch out for:
Souvenir sellers at every tourist location and market - very persistent, so hone your haggling skills and have some small local currency in chaats (pronounced jets and roughly 1330 to $1) or small denominations USA dollars. Don't be afraid to simply say a forceful NO, and they’ll get the message.
Bagan to Inle Lake
En route to Inle Lake, we stopped off at the famous (although not busy) Pindaya Caves. These caves are home to more than 8,000 Buddha images and form a labyrinth through the underground chambers.
Legend tells how celestial beings descended to play in the lake. As the day wore on, and needing a place to stay, they discovered the Pindayo caves. However, first they had to get rid of the resident giant spider, which is commemorated by the huge model spider at the entrance!
You can hear legends and folklore throughout Myanmar. Remarkable tales of princes on white horses and the intrigue, murder and love stories of their imperial dynasties. It’s truly a magical place that sweeps you away with its fairy-tale palaces and pagodas.
The pace of life is unhurried, especially at Inle Lake. This made it an ideal place to end our tour of Myanmar, taking a short but relaxing boat ride to our luxury hotel, the Inle Princess, right in the middle of lake.
I recommend both the Inle Princess and the Villa Inle hotels. Both are great locations, evocative of the lake-style, and with inspiring grounds and gardens. But make sure you have a lake view room!
Both spas here offer speciality treatments at reasonable prices - I recommend the warm oil treatment to truly reach nirvana!
Fit in a visit to the local market and see the local ladies of the Intha people, dressed in black with orange turbans, often carrying their purchases on their heads. When they smile at you don’t be surprised if they have red teeth, as it’s common in Myanmar to chew “beetle” (like tobacco). You may also see the long-necked ladies of the Kayan or Padaung people here, with the gold rings around their elongated necks.
Watch the local fishermen and your boat captain row your boat in a one-legged fashion, unique to Inle Lake, a centuries old skill that’s essential when you live in - not just on – the lake.
It’s easy to visit local weavers. Lotus flowers bloom all over the lake, and you can watch the weavers spin the fibres of the stems into luxurious (but expensive) fabrics. They also weave silk and cotton and the hand-made quality is outstanding.
We were privileged to be invited to share a delicious meal with a local family on the veranda of their stilted lake village house. Keen to educate us on their way of life, we saw their traditional living quarters built from bamboo, bamboo woven matting, and even their captive fish in a net below their house. This means lunch is always fresh!
Summary
It’s hard to sum up such an unusual destination, but the fascinating culture, welcoming people and interesting and rather chequered history make Myanmar a unique country to visit, incomparable to any other far eastern location.
Margaret’s Myanmar To-do List
- Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon - the ultimate holy place in Myanmar
- Sunset at Bagan – It’s possible to view the city at sunset from a hot air balloon. Otherwise climb the terraces at Shwesandaw pagoda for an incredible view at dusk
- Lunch with the locals in Pauk Pai floating village on Inle Lake
- Shwe Kyin old monastery Mandalay- a calm and serene way to end a day’s busy sightseeing
